Simply Smiss asks: How do you know how long to bake the clay/know it is ready?
HaffinaCreations
The worst thing that can happen to Polymer Clay is it be undercured, but you cannot really overcure it. Burning it is a completely different matter. (If you are using Sculpey III ignore what I just said.. it is frankly a PITA and can be overcured).
So what I do is use an oven thermometer to check my temperature, and I have it on the optimum temperature for the brand of clay I'm using. I preheat my oven, I find that having it sit 'on temperature' for a while seems to stop temperature spikes, which can burn your clay. Then I put my pieces in for at least double the recommend curing time unless they are really thin or really tiny. By putting them in longer you ensure they are cured thoroughly.
I have had pieces which I didnt cure for the longer time that I thought were cured and when I went to drill the holes the bead literally broke in half. Since that time I havent put any piece, other than a few minis, in the oven for anything less than 40 mins, mostly they go in for an hour.
It can be hard to determine if they are cured by sight and feel, more because Polymer Clay is still 'flexible' when its warm and thin pieces will retain flexibility even after they cool. Baking them for an extended time at the recommend temperature is all you can really do to make sure.
kneadedthings
I preheat generally go an hour also. Unless I'm curing something that is glass, Then I put in in the oven cold and start my ''bake time" once the oven comes to temperature. This allows the glass to warm to temp also. I started doing this after I had a few salt and pepper shakers crack on me long after I made them. I don't know why but believe that perhaps the glass kept the clay from curing properly? I haven't had any crack since.
DesertWindDesigns
First an oven thermometer is a must! The temperature on my little oven is so far off it isn't even funny! I always preheat for a good 10-15 minutes. My oven spikes way over the target temperature, but then stays pretty stable after that. Know your oven's quirks!
I use Premo and Kato clays.
Per Premo instructions, cure at 275 degrees for 30 minutes for each 1/4" thickness. Depending on what I'm curing, I cure between 1-2 hours. I always add extra time for good measure. You can't over cure.
The Kato instructions state to cure for 10 minutes at 300 degrees. Depending on thickness, I usually cure 20-40 minutes. Sometimes an hour. Again, you can't over cure, so I always add extra time.
CreativeCritters
Great tips from everyone! I also bake all but the thinnest pieces for at least an hour in a pre-heated oven (check your brand of clay and use an oven thermometer to set the right temperature). I sculpt some very large pieces, and with those I often bake the piece in stages, allowing me to add raw clay to the baked clay without distorting the details I've already sculpted. This comes in very handy when adding individual scales to my dragons. I bake the clay covered armature for an hour, then I have something solid to hold on to while adding the tiny scales. I'll generally add about half the scales then do another bake so I don't squish those scales. You can bake repeatedly without any problems with most clays, although lighter colors may darken with subsequent baking. Sometimes I'll put a piece of foil over these to help protect them. These repeated bakings also ensure that the piece is completely cured and very strong.
rivervalleydesign
It is so great to read what other Smooshers do when it comes to curing! I cure multiple times at the minimum time. I use mostly Premo & Fimo, so I cure for 30 minutes at 275. Even on super thin pieces, which is what I have been working on lately. I finish almost all of my pieces with multiple layers of Kato Liquid clay, so each layer gets cured for 20 minutes. And I always pre heat my convection oven. It holds the temperature perfectly, even when it's on for hours.
valldawnsjewelrydesigns
I have a toaster oven made specifically for polymer clay which has a timer for 30 minutes & markings for temperatures between 230F & 275F, but have put an oven thermometer in it & preheat it for 30 minutes, then bake according to the directions on the clay package, which is usually 30 minutes at 230F. Since I am always experimenting with the clay, it is usually baked more than once. I've never had under baked or burned clay, but have seen what it looks like.
ColtPixy
I cannot stress enough to use an oven thermometer. It is important not only to know that your oven is calibrated to the proper temperature but to also make sure the temperature does not spike during the curing process. I do not preheat my convection oven but I know that it takes 10 minutes for it to reach the proper temperature for polymer clay to cure. I add 10 minutes to the cure time to cover this. I leave my pieces in the oven until they completely cool.
Showing posts with label Questions and Answers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Questions and Answers. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Monday, December 27, 2010
Ask A Smoosher: favorite clays
Boo asks, What clays are your favorites and why?
CDowdleDesigns
My favorite clays are Femo, Premo and Sculpey III. They are the stiffest and withstand the torture of reducing while still keeping the design intact. I also like the original Sculpey to sculpt with, it's the easiest to work with when you have Arthritis in your hands.
Tamed
My favourite clay for sculpting miniatures is Puppen/doll Fimo. It is strong, but flexible and holds it shape nicely, plus the light colour makes it easier to see small details.
ColtPixy
*For my mica shift I use Premo because it was my first favorite clay and it shifts so well.
*For miniatures and other things I either use Premo, Fimo or Kato. They are all very strong clays. Which one (or combination) I use depends on what color I am trying to achieve.
*For my dolls and such I use a combination of ProSculpt (or Living Doll) and Bozzi. While each are very strong, flexible clays on their own I find the combination gives me the best of the positives from each: firmness, memory retention and color.
gamekitty
I use primarily premo because of the artist's palate. Sometimes I would use kato because kato has a higher baking temperature but it will cure at premo's regular temperature. It is kind of a line of defense against burning clay.
HaffinaCreations, BeadsByHaffina
I use Premo almost exclusively these days, although I still have a little Kato from earlier on. I love the texture and finish of Premo, and the colour 'trueness' of Kato. In terms of Liquid clays, Kato is my absolute favourite.. it clears to a glass like finish, which Translucent Liquid Sculpey does not.
I would really love to try out some of the other clays, specifically those designed for sculpting.
averilpam
I'm still experimenting with different types. I am currently using mostly Premo though I also have some Fimo Classic and Cernit. I tried Sculpey III but find it a bit soft, as is Fimo soft. I really love the Cernit nature range, it makes lovely stone effect.
I also tried Kato but it was so hard it really hurt my hands just softening it enough to get it into the pasta machine! Some of it was so hard it just crumbled to bits - maybe it was old, I don't know.
CDowdleDesigns
My favorite clays are Femo, Premo and Sculpey III. They are the stiffest and withstand the torture of reducing while still keeping the design intact. I also like the original Sculpey to sculpt with, it's the easiest to work with when you have Arthritis in your hands.
Tamed
My favourite clay for sculpting miniatures is Puppen/doll Fimo. It is strong, but flexible and holds it shape nicely, plus the light colour makes it easier to see small details.
ColtPixy
*For my mica shift I use Premo because it was my first favorite clay and it shifts so well.
*For miniatures and other things I either use Premo, Fimo or Kato. They are all very strong clays. Which one (or combination) I use depends on what color I am trying to achieve.
*For my dolls and such I use a combination of ProSculpt (or Living Doll) and Bozzi. While each are very strong, flexible clays on their own I find the combination gives me the best of the positives from each: firmness, memory retention and color.
gamekitty
I use primarily premo because of the artist's palate. Sometimes I would use kato because kato has a higher baking temperature but it will cure at premo's regular temperature. It is kind of a line of defense against burning clay.
HaffinaCreations, BeadsByHaffina
I use Premo almost exclusively these days, although I still have a little Kato from earlier on. I love the texture and finish of Premo, and the colour 'trueness' of Kato. In terms of Liquid clays, Kato is my absolute favourite.. it clears to a glass like finish, which Translucent Liquid Sculpey does not.
I would really love to try out some of the other clays, specifically those designed for sculpting.
averilpam
I'm still experimenting with different types. I am currently using mostly Premo though I also have some Fimo Classic and Cernit. I tried Sculpey III but find it a bit soft, as is Fimo soft. I really love the Cernit nature range, it makes lovely stone effect.
I also tried Kato but it was so hard it really hurt my hands just softening it enough to get it into the pasta machine! Some of it was so hard it just crumbled to bits - maybe it was old, I don't know.
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Ask A Smoosher: Reducing Canes
Janine asks...
I make canes and I do pretty good with them but distortion is soooooo frustrating. Anyone have a trick or two for combating distortion in their canes?
HaffinaCreations:
Distortion is always something of an issue. I try to minimise it by reducing slowly and as evenly as possible, using a squeeze and stretch kind of movement as opposed to rolling. So really I am trying to elongate the cane, not make it smaller if that makes sense, it does get smaller but that is not the focus of my brain and movements.
gamekitty:
I have 2 ways to reduce canes that I find it works.
1) I reduce canes by squeezing and pulling. Then after I am done, I simply roll it lightly on the table.
2) I roll the canes out but I rotate them as I roll along. So if I roll one upwards I will roll again downwards toward the table, if that makes sense.
gingerbells:
I like to let my canes rest for a while after making them so that the clay has a chance to become the same temperature all the way through. The elements will move at the same ratio[hopefully] if they start at the same temperature.
I like the squeezing and pulling method of reduction; if I roll to much I get more distortion.
rivervalleydesign:
I like to put my canes in the refrigerator for awhile, especially when using Premo clay. I reduce the ends first, then gently roll the center portion to match the same dimension as the ends.
I make canes and I do pretty good with them but distortion is soooooo frustrating. Anyone have a trick or two for combating distortion in their canes?
HaffinaCreations:
Distortion is always something of an issue. I try to minimise it by reducing slowly and as evenly as possible, using a squeeze and stretch kind of movement as opposed to rolling. So really I am trying to elongate the cane, not make it smaller if that makes sense, it does get smaller but that is not the focus of my brain and movements.
gamekitty:
I have 2 ways to reduce canes that I find it works.
1) I reduce canes by squeezing and pulling. Then after I am done, I simply roll it lightly on the table.
2) I roll the canes out but I rotate them as I roll along. So if I roll one upwards I will roll again downwards toward the table, if that makes sense.
gingerbells:
I like to let my canes rest for a while after making them so that the clay has a chance to become the same temperature all the way through. The elements will move at the same ratio[hopefully] if they start at the same temperature.
I like the squeezing and pulling method of reduction; if I roll to much I get more distortion.
rivervalleydesign:
I like to put my canes in the refrigerator for awhile, especially when using Premo clay. I reduce the ends first, then gently roll the center portion to match the same dimension as the ends.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Ask a Smoosher: glues and polymer clay
Teri of TheBeadedBranch asks...
What is your favorite glue?
What glue do you use to attach bails?
How do you attach eye pins?
There are as many ways to do something as there are people doing it so I asked the Smooshers to give their answers so Teri could hear them all.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
ValeriesStuff says:
My favorite glue is Loctite Quick Set Epoxy. I use it for attaching bails.
To glue the bail: after baking, I first sandpaper (very gently) the spot where the bail is to be attached. I prepare the epoxy according to the manufacturer's directions. I put the glue on the bail and the bail on the finished piece:
Another way to attach a bail:
This piece was done in two steps. First, I made (and baked) the front of the pendant. Second, I cut a round piece of black clay for the back. I put a small loop of wire at the top of the wet clay and baked both pieces together. (did that make sense???)
Eye pins:
I insert the eye pin into the wet clay and bake the item with the pin in place. After baking, I remove the pin and put a dab of Loctite Super Glue on the pin and reinsert.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
ColtPixy says:
For this type of application any type of cyanoacrylates (super glue type) will work. Everyone has their favorite glues, mine is Loctite 411.
I glue the bail on after the piece is baked. I don't sand first unless it is a piece that needs sanding, like mica shift. This is one of those flat back bails like some resin artists use...
For eye pins the way I do it depends on what it is. If it is a sculpted piece like this...
I wrap the eye pin in wire like this...
Then I paint on a thin coat of a PVA glue. My favorites are Sobo and Aileen's Tacky glue. This gives "tooth" for the clay to adhere to. After the glue dries I then sculpt onto the eye pin.
For other pieces such as this one...
I make the piece, push in an eye pin and bake. Then I pull out the eye pin, sand the piece then put Loctite 411 on the eye pin and push it back in the hole.
This has no glue. I baked it with a jump ring inserted in it that the bail is attached too.
You can find lots of information about glues and their applications by various contributors here http://glassattic.com/polymer/glues-Diluent.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
tooaquarius says:
I actually prefer not to use glue to attach bails - instead I sink a jump ring into a slit in my pendant, line the slit with liquid clay, heal over the bottom of the ring, creating a mechanical hold. I bake and then sand normallly.
I have a post (with photos) on my blog about this:
http://www.tooaquarius.com/2007/06/04/blob-to-pendant/#more-168
And this bead in my shop is made this way:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CatsWire says:
I don't use glue. Glue is no friend of mine ;-)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
2goodclaymates says:
I hardly ever use glue and try to avoid it whenever I can. When I make my earrings I make my own eyepins that have kinks in them so that when I insert in the clay, they will not pull out after baking.
Here are some earrings I have used this technique:
Other earring pieces I might use some tiny prong bails like on these:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you have a question for Smooshers please leave it here in a reply.
What is your favorite glue?
What glue do you use to attach bails?
How do you attach eye pins?
There are as many ways to do something as there are people doing it so I asked the Smooshers to give their answers so Teri could hear them all.
ValeriesStuff says:
My favorite glue is Loctite Quick Set Epoxy. I use it for attaching bails.
To glue the bail: after baking, I first sandpaper (very gently) the spot where the bail is to be attached. I prepare the epoxy according to the manufacturer's directions. I put the glue on the bail and the bail on the finished piece:
Another way to attach a bail:
This piece was done in two steps. First, I made (and baked) the front of the pendant. Second, I cut a round piece of black clay for the back. I put a small loop of wire at the top of the wet clay and baked both pieces together. (did that make sense???)
Eye pins:
I insert the eye pin into the wet clay and bake the item with the pin in place. After baking, I remove the pin and put a dab of Loctite Super Glue on the pin and reinsert.
ColtPixy says:
For this type of application any type of cyanoacrylates (super glue type) will work. Everyone has their favorite glues, mine is Loctite 411.
I glue the bail on after the piece is baked. I don't sand first unless it is a piece that needs sanding, like mica shift. This is one of those flat back bails like some resin artists use...
For eye pins the way I do it depends on what it is. If it is a sculpted piece like this...
I wrap the eye pin in wire like this...
Then I paint on a thin coat of a PVA glue. My favorites are Sobo and Aileen's Tacky glue. This gives "tooth" for the clay to adhere to. After the glue dries I then sculpt onto the eye pin.
For other pieces such as this one...
I make the piece, push in an eye pin and bake. Then I pull out the eye pin, sand the piece then put Loctite 411 on the eye pin and push it back in the hole.
This has no glue. I baked it with a jump ring inserted in it that the bail is attached too.
You can find lots of information about glues and their applications by various contributors here http://glassattic.com/polymer/glues-Diluent.htm
tooaquarius says:
I actually prefer not to use glue to attach bails - instead I sink a jump ring into a slit in my pendant, line the slit with liquid clay, heal over the bottom of the ring, creating a mechanical hold. I bake and then sand normallly.
I have a post (with photos) on my blog about this:
http://www.tooaquarius.com/2007/06/04/blob-to-pendant/#more-168
And this bead in my shop is made this way:
CatsWire says:
I don't use glue. Glue is no friend of mine ;-)
2goodclaymates says:
I hardly ever use glue and try to avoid it whenever I can. When I make my earrings I make my own eyepins that have kinks in them so that when I insert in the clay, they will not pull out after baking.
Here are some earrings I have used this technique:
Other earring pieces I might use some tiny prong bails like on these:
If you have a question for Smooshers please leave it here in a reply.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
You had questions, we have answers
I've seen things in tutorials that say you can paint the clay with acrylic paint...is this before, or after, or "pick one"?
Yes you can paint on the clay with acrylics and I do it after the clay is baked. You'll also want to glaze the clay after you paint it so the paint doesn't scratch off.
LaDeDaCreations
You can do it either before or after. Personally I prefer before because then the paint bakes into the clay and it won't smear after it is baked. You can paint it afterwards too but I find that the paint smears and you have to seal it to make it smearproof. Seal it after the paint dries.
gamekitty
you can use it on raw clay OR baked clay. it all depends on the look you are going after. I use it on textured items both raw and baked.
Dragonsglass
If you're wanting to add a patina to your piece you will want to paint with acrylic paints after you bake and be sure to varnish to protect the paint. If you're using acrylic paint as part of a faux technique (such as faux turquoise) or for a layer in mokume gane, you would paint the raw clay.
intothedawn
Painting can be done on either raw or baked clay. I like using a very faint acrylic wash on my sculptures after they are cured just for a little bit of color here and there.
For other things I really like mixing my own colors with just clay, no paint.
ColtPixy
Seriously, how do you get the translucent to BE translucent and not look like fish scales? (Never had much luck with it in the past, but want to try it again)
The translucent always turns out kind of milky looking and not actually clear. So I'm not sure if there's a trick to that or not.
LaDeDaCreations
I have heard that one way to get it 'clearer' is to drop it in ice water straight out of the oven. I havent tried it yet, so I dont know if it works. I've also heard that 'Sculpey Premo Frost' ends up the 'clearest', but that none end up looking like glass or anything.
HaffinaCreations
1) You can tent your work with foil. That does not always work though.
2) Bury your work in corn starch before baking and then sand it afterwards (never tried it; heard it from Cindy Lietz)
3) Bleach your work by soaking it in bleach until it becomes more clear (never tried that either)
4) Use a different brand of poly clay (people have good things to say about Kato translucent or frost premo; never tried it either)
5) Glaze your work after you are done.
6) If you are embedding it in resin, you don't have to bake it. Just pour a layer of resin on the mold you are using. Wait for the resin to cure completely. Then put your unfinished clay work in the mold and pour another layer of resin until it covers it, and wait for it to cure. The clay is then "sandwiched" between the resin and it has a cool effect.
gamekitty
It is never truly translucent. The best way to make it appear so is to use very very thin slices, bake it in a covered pan at the right temp, put item directly in ice bath and sand the heck out of it
Gingerbells
Translucent clay: the trick is practice. The translucent has to be super super thin to not leave the "fish scale" look. When slicing a cane it has to be almost tissue paper thin for you to almost eliminate the shadow. You can also trim away the translucent from the slice to help out. the rest is sanding sanding and some more sanding.
Dragonsglass
Translucent clay is tricky to work with. Some of the "scales" may be little pockets of air trapped, so be careful when conditioning clay so that no air gets trapped. Also, be sure that translucent clay gets conditioned enough. I find that if I don't condition the clay long enough, I tend to see little scaly looking spots. For translucent pieces to really look their best, sanding is the key. Sand with at least 4 different grits (400 to 1000) of wet/dry sandpaper to bring out the translucent layers in your pieces. The more sanding you do with more and finer grits, the better it will look.
intothedawn
In all these cane tutorials, I see these HUGE fat canes. I know you are supposed to reduce it, but if you are only going to make a handful of beads, what do most of YOU do with the extra?? I'd hate to waste that much clay for just 10 beads.
As far as the extra clay from the canes, I use it as scrap for other projects so nothing is wasted. Say I'm making an incense burner and I want to use a certain pattern, I will take my scraps, make them into a ball and get it good an soft then slice the pieces off of the pattern I want to use and place it all over my scrap ball and shape the burner how ever I want. Or you can make a pendant with the same concept just smaller.
LaDeDaCreations
Sometimes I keep the cane for later, I might decide to make something with it later. Other times I smoosh it up and make swirly cabochons or beads. Sometimes I smoosh it up and use it for bead centres.. with different canes over the top.
Haffina
You can use the huge canes for all kinds of things: beads, slices, pattern sheets, resin embeds, cool color mixes, etc... I keep them around in ziploc bags so that when I can find a use for it I can just warm it up with my hands to condition it a little and then slice. There are many ways to revive an old cane, but I don't keep canes long enough for me to find out how long they last.
gamekitty
Make more beads :o). really I just keep the extra and use it on other projects or combine them to make other more complex canes. Canes are addicting. No clay is ever wasted you can always find ways to use it, I have a covered dish os scrap that I use for bead guts and the inside of sculpts.
Gingerbells
huge fat canes....my favorite :) I am a cane maker. I make huge canes. I reduce them and cut them into 2" long sections and sell them. Sometimes I use my canes on pieces, but most of the time they are to be sold.
Dragonsglass
The perfect solution to lots of extra canes-- SELL THEM! There are many PC artists that simply make and sell raw canes to people who want to make their own beads for jewelry designs, but aren't interested in making canes. Do a little online research to find out what size cane is going for what kind of price, and put 'em in your store for sale!
intothedawn
This is one of my very favorite things about this medium there is virtually no waste. This makes practicing new things very economical.
ColtPixy
For the jewelry makers...where do you get your necklace bails?
I normally make my bails with wire, dont really like most of the bails you can buy. If I'm making a pendant in polymer clay I will sometimes make a loop with a piece of wire and embed it in the pendant before I bake it.
Haffina
You can find them on ebay under aanraku bails. They have a flat back where you can apply glue on there if you do not want to pierce a hole in the clay before baking. If you do pierce the clay before baking you can find bails everywhere: type in pendent bails on google or ebay and you will find tons of sources and styles.
gamekitty
There are great supply sellers on Artfire, I also like online shops like Artbeads.com
Gingerbells
I make most of mine with wire of aluminum flashing. However, there are many places on the internet you can get them. Rings n Things has them, Fire Mountain gems has them and so on. Google jewelry bails.
Dragonsglass
I often like to use clay to make bails for my pendants (or make it part of my pendant) like this necklace:
Other favorite techniques include using eyepins (available at any craft store) or creating large holes in pendants so I can string them on cords like this:
intothedawn
All of the above and I have even used an eye pin wrapped in fine wire to give it tooth for the clay to hold onto.
ColtPixy
where can I get a clay gun? I saw a tutorial I want to try, and think I may need one.
I got my gun at Hobby Lobby.
LaDeDaCreations
There are various types of clay guns. Kemper and sculpey make the basic ones but they are the hardest to use. Makins have one with a hand crank which I thought is clever. My personal favorite is a clay gun that looks like a garlic press! However, I recommend a kemper one you can get the adapter that makes it squirt clay out like a caulking gun. You can find them easier on ebay or google. I never had much luck with craft stores to find the right thing.
gamekitty
I love the Makins brand clay extruder, I got mine online from polymerclayexpress.com
Gingerbells
The one I recommend is the Makins professional with the twist for pushing the clay. They can be found online in many stores like polymer clay express, clay alley, ebay and so on
Dragonsglass
The Makin's Clay Extruder is available at Hobby Lobby and online.
intothedawn
Why is this stuff so dang addicting??? I messed with clay for HOURS last night, and lost track of the time!!
For me, clay is addicting because I can smash it, beat it with a rolling pin, poke holes in it, then stick it in the oven and not have to do all those things to my husband! LOL!
LaDeDaCreations
Because its fun..
Haffina
It is addictive to me because it is squishy and you can do all kinds of different things with them. Plus it is fun to be a kid and mess around with clay and you can bake it to save it.
gamekitty
yup that happens, I have lost many hours of sleep thinking of all the cool things that can be done with it. Give in Resistance is futile........
Gingerbells
Better to be addicted to clay then drugs in my book :D Enjoy the addiction for there are NO 12 step programs for us :)
Dragonsglass
Because there's never a dull moment with clay! There's so much you can do with it, you never run out of fun new ideas to try.
intothedawn
For me it is addicting because it is never boring. The things that can be done with it seem limitless. My first love with polymer clay was sculpting then I became entranced with mica shift and mokume gane. Now I find myself attracted to textures. Never boring at all.
ColtPixy
Can I use polymer clay over an aluminum cuff bracelet or will the clay crack? How thick would it need to be if I could and can the clay be worn next to the skin?
You can I have done it before with nice results.
The bracelet will not be flexible so make sure it fits before you cover it.
I use #2 thickness on my Atlas PM.
I have never had a problem wearing the clay next to my skin.
Cuffs are nice but I prefer to make and wear bangles. They are a more sturdy wearable bracelet.
Gingerbells
i know the clay can be worn on the skin. but if you have air pockets it will crack.
KellysClayCreations
I have never used the aluminum cuffs before but yes you can wear polymer clay next to your skin.
LaDeDaCreations
You can use an aluminum cuff but you will need to use a strong clay that is not brittle after baking. Cover the cuff armature with a thin coat Sobo or similar PVA glue and let it dry. This will give the cuff a bit of tooth for the clay to hold onto. Polymer clay is fine to be worn next to the skin.
ColtPixy
Yes you can paint on the clay with acrylics and I do it after the clay is baked. You'll also want to glaze the clay after you paint it so the paint doesn't scratch off.
LaDeDaCreations
You can do it either before or after. Personally I prefer before because then the paint bakes into the clay and it won't smear after it is baked. You can paint it afterwards too but I find that the paint smears and you have to seal it to make it smearproof. Seal it after the paint dries.
gamekitty
you can use it on raw clay OR baked clay. it all depends on the look you are going after. I use it on textured items both raw and baked.
Dragonsglass
If you're wanting to add a patina to your piece you will want to paint with acrylic paints after you bake and be sure to varnish to protect the paint. If you're using acrylic paint as part of a faux technique (such as faux turquoise) or for a layer in mokume gane, you would paint the raw clay.
intothedawn
Painting can be done on either raw or baked clay. I like using a very faint acrylic wash on my sculptures after they are cured just for a little bit of color here and there.
For other things I really like mixing my own colors with just clay, no paint.
ColtPixy
Seriously, how do you get the translucent to BE translucent and not look like fish scales? (Never had much luck with it in the past, but want to try it again)
The translucent always turns out kind of milky looking and not actually clear. So I'm not sure if there's a trick to that or not.
LaDeDaCreations
I have heard that one way to get it 'clearer' is to drop it in ice water straight out of the oven. I havent tried it yet, so I dont know if it works. I've also heard that 'Sculpey Premo Frost' ends up the 'clearest', but that none end up looking like glass or anything.
HaffinaCreations
1) You can tent your work with foil. That does not always work though.
2) Bury your work in corn starch before baking and then sand it afterwards (never tried it; heard it from Cindy Lietz)
3) Bleach your work by soaking it in bleach until it becomes more clear (never tried that either)
4) Use a different brand of poly clay (people have good things to say about Kato translucent or frost premo; never tried it either)
5) Glaze your work after you are done.
6) If you are embedding it in resin, you don't have to bake it. Just pour a layer of resin on the mold you are using. Wait for the resin to cure completely. Then put your unfinished clay work in the mold and pour another layer of resin until it covers it, and wait for it to cure. The clay is then "sandwiched" between the resin and it has a cool effect.
gamekitty
It is never truly translucent. The best way to make it appear so is to use very very thin slices, bake it in a covered pan at the right temp, put item directly in ice bath and sand the heck out of it
Gingerbells
Translucent clay: the trick is practice. The translucent has to be super super thin to not leave the "fish scale" look. When slicing a cane it has to be almost tissue paper thin for you to almost eliminate the shadow. You can also trim away the translucent from the slice to help out. the rest is sanding sanding and some more sanding.
Dragonsglass
Translucent clay is tricky to work with. Some of the "scales" may be little pockets of air trapped, so be careful when conditioning clay so that no air gets trapped. Also, be sure that translucent clay gets conditioned enough. I find that if I don't condition the clay long enough, I tend to see little scaly looking spots. For translucent pieces to really look their best, sanding is the key. Sand with at least 4 different grits (400 to 1000) of wet/dry sandpaper to bring out the translucent layers in your pieces. The more sanding you do with more and finer grits, the better it will look.
intothedawn
In all these cane tutorials, I see these HUGE fat canes. I know you are supposed to reduce it, but if you are only going to make a handful of beads, what do most of YOU do with the extra?? I'd hate to waste that much clay for just 10 beads.
As far as the extra clay from the canes, I use it as scrap for other projects so nothing is wasted. Say I'm making an incense burner and I want to use a certain pattern, I will take my scraps, make them into a ball and get it good an soft then slice the pieces off of the pattern I want to use and place it all over my scrap ball and shape the burner how ever I want. Or you can make a pendant with the same concept just smaller.
LaDeDaCreations
Sometimes I keep the cane for later, I might decide to make something with it later. Other times I smoosh it up and make swirly cabochons or beads. Sometimes I smoosh it up and use it for bead centres.. with different canes over the top.
Haffina
You can use the huge canes for all kinds of things: beads, slices, pattern sheets, resin embeds, cool color mixes, etc... I keep them around in ziploc bags so that when I can find a use for it I can just warm it up with my hands to condition it a little and then slice. There are many ways to revive an old cane, but I don't keep canes long enough for me to find out how long they last.
gamekitty
Make more beads :o). really I just keep the extra and use it on other projects or combine them to make other more complex canes. Canes are addicting. No clay is ever wasted you can always find ways to use it, I have a covered dish os scrap that I use for bead guts and the inside of sculpts.
Gingerbells
huge fat canes....my favorite :) I am a cane maker. I make huge canes. I reduce them and cut them into 2" long sections and sell them. Sometimes I use my canes on pieces, but most of the time they are to be sold.
Dragonsglass
The perfect solution to lots of extra canes-- SELL THEM! There are many PC artists that simply make and sell raw canes to people who want to make their own beads for jewelry designs, but aren't interested in making canes. Do a little online research to find out what size cane is going for what kind of price, and put 'em in your store for sale!
intothedawn
This is one of my very favorite things about this medium there is virtually no waste. This makes practicing new things very economical.
ColtPixy
For the jewelry makers...where do you get your necklace bails?
I normally make my bails with wire, dont really like most of the bails you can buy. If I'm making a pendant in polymer clay I will sometimes make a loop with a piece of wire and embed it in the pendant before I bake it.
Haffina
You can find them on ebay under aanraku bails. They have a flat back where you can apply glue on there if you do not want to pierce a hole in the clay before baking. If you do pierce the clay before baking you can find bails everywhere: type in pendent bails on google or ebay and you will find tons of sources and styles.
gamekitty
There are great supply sellers on Artfire, I also like online shops like Artbeads.com
Gingerbells
I make most of mine with wire of aluminum flashing. However, there are many places on the internet you can get them. Rings n Things has them, Fire Mountain gems has them and so on. Google jewelry bails.
Dragonsglass
I often like to use clay to make bails for my pendants (or make it part of my pendant) like this necklace:
Other favorite techniques include using eyepins (available at any craft store) or creating large holes in pendants so I can string them on cords like this:
intothedawn
All of the above and I have even used an eye pin wrapped in fine wire to give it tooth for the clay to hold onto.
ColtPixy
where can I get a clay gun? I saw a tutorial I want to try, and think I may need one.
I got my gun at Hobby Lobby.
LaDeDaCreations
There are various types of clay guns. Kemper and sculpey make the basic ones but they are the hardest to use. Makins have one with a hand crank which I thought is clever. My personal favorite is a clay gun that looks like a garlic press! However, I recommend a kemper one you can get the adapter that makes it squirt clay out like a caulking gun. You can find them easier on ebay or google. I never had much luck with craft stores to find the right thing.
gamekitty
I love the Makins brand clay extruder, I got mine online from polymerclayexpress.com
Gingerbells
The one I recommend is the Makins professional with the twist for pushing the clay. They can be found online in many stores like polymer clay express, clay alley, ebay and so on
Dragonsglass
The Makin's Clay Extruder is available at Hobby Lobby and online.
intothedawn
Why is this stuff so dang addicting??? I messed with clay for HOURS last night, and lost track of the time!!
For me, clay is addicting because I can smash it, beat it with a rolling pin, poke holes in it, then stick it in the oven and not have to do all those things to my husband! LOL!
LaDeDaCreations
Because its fun..
Haffina
It is addictive to me because it is squishy and you can do all kinds of different things with them. Plus it is fun to be a kid and mess around with clay and you can bake it to save it.
gamekitty
yup that happens, I have lost many hours of sleep thinking of all the cool things that can be done with it. Give in Resistance is futile........
Gingerbells
Better to be addicted to clay then drugs in my book :D Enjoy the addiction for there are NO 12 step programs for us :)
Dragonsglass
Because there's never a dull moment with clay! There's so much you can do with it, you never run out of fun new ideas to try.
intothedawn
For me it is addicting because it is never boring. The things that can be done with it seem limitless. My first love with polymer clay was sculpting then I became entranced with mica shift and mokume gane. Now I find myself attracted to textures. Never boring at all.
ColtPixy
Can I use polymer clay over an aluminum cuff bracelet or will the clay crack? How thick would it need to be if I could and can the clay be worn next to the skin?
You can I have done it before with nice results.
The bracelet will not be flexible so make sure it fits before you cover it.
I use #2 thickness on my Atlas PM.
I have never had a problem wearing the clay next to my skin.
Cuffs are nice but I prefer to make and wear bangles. They are a more sturdy wearable bracelet.
Gingerbells
i know the clay can be worn on the skin. but if you have air pockets it will crack.
KellysClayCreations
I have never used the aluminum cuffs before but yes you can wear polymer clay next to your skin.
LaDeDaCreations
You can use an aluminum cuff but you will need to use a strong clay that is not brittle after baking. Cover the cuff armature with a thin coat Sobo or similar PVA glue and let it dry. This will give the cuff a bit of tooth for the clay to hold onto. Polymer clay is fine to be worn next to the skin.
ColtPixy
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
You had questions, we have answers
We recieved lots of great questions to last week's "Ask a Smoosher" and have split up the answers into several posts.
UBK asks the following questions:
I have some pretty seed beads, not sure if they are glass or plastic, but they are teeny, and long story short, is it ok to push them into the clay before baking and bake like usual?
For the seed beads, I have used all kinds in my clay and baked them and they did just fine.
LaDeDaCreations
I've not tried seedbeads, but I have used flatback Swarovski crystals..they were fine.
HaffinaCreations
I suppose it is a preference but if the beads are plastic I would avoid putting the plastic ones in the oven, simply because I had a bad experience of them melting on me if it is the really cheap ones from China. However, some of the members used it with no problems so I think it depends on the bead. If in doubt, just put some beads in some scrap clay and bake it to see if they melt. If they don't melt in the oven then they pass the test and you use it for your artwork.
gamekitty
If they are glass they'll be fine, test one of them before hand and you'll know if they'll take the heat.
Gingerbells
My suggestion is take a few and push them into some scrap clay and bake. if they melt you know they can't be baked. However, that doesn't mean you can't use them. You can push them into the raw clay and then pop them out before baking, then put them back in the baked piece using super glue.
Dragonsglass
If you're not sure whether the beads are plastic or glass, I would do a test bake with a some of them before you add them to your pieces to make sure they won't melt. Also, sometimes beads that are just pushed into the clay will pop out later, so its a good idea to adhere them with liquid clay or wire them in, if possible. Or pop them out after baking and glue them in tight again.
intothedawn
I have had mixed experience with plastic beads. Some melted and some did not. Some plastic pearls had a really cool look after melting but it was not what I was going for. Always test on a piece of scrap clay.
ColtPixy
I've seen things in tutorials that say you can paint the clay with acrylic paint...is this before, or after, or "pick one"?
Yes you can paint on the clay with acrylics and I do it after the clay is baked. You'll also want to glaze the clay after you paint it so the paint doesn't scratch off.
LaDeDaCreations
You can do it either before or after. Personally I prefer before because then the paint bakes into the clay and it won't smear after it is baked. You can paint it afterwards too but I find that the paint smears and you have to seal it to make it smearproof. Seal it after the paint dries.
gamekitty
You can use it on raw clay OR baked clay. it all depends on the look you are going after. I use it on textured items both raw and baked.
Dragonsglass
If you're wanting to add a patina to your piece you will want to paint with acrylic paints after you bake and be sure to varnish to protect the paint. If you're using acrylic paint as part of a faux technique (such as faux turquoise) or for a layer in mokume gane, you would paint the raw clay.
intothedawn
I have used acrylic washes on sculptures that have already been baked. On sculptures I am looking for a matte finish so after the acrylic wash dries I cover it with a thin coat of liquid clay and rebake.
ColtPixy
Seriously, how do you get the translucent to BE translucent and not look like fish scales? (Never had much luck with it in the past, but want to try it again)
The translucent always turns out kind of milky looking and not actually clear. So I'm not sure if there's a trick to that or not.
LaDeDaCreations
I have heard that one way to get it 'clearer' is to drop it in ice water straight out of the oven. I havent tried it yet, so I dont know if it works. I've also heard that 'Sculpey Premo Frost' ends up the 'clearest', but that none end up looking like glass or anything.
HaffinaCreations
1) You can tent your work with foil. That does not always work though.
2) Bury your work in corn starch before baking and then sand it afterwards (never tried it; heard it from Cindy Lietz)
3) Bleach your work by soaking it in bleach until it becomes more clear (never tried that either)
4) Use a different brand of poly clay (people have good things to say about Kato translucent or frost premo; never tried it either)
5) Glaze your work after you are done.
6) If you are embedding it in resin, you don't have to bake it. Just pour a layer of resin on the mold you are using. Wait for the resin to cure completely. Then put your unfinished clay work in the mold and pour another layer of resin until it covers it, and wait for it to cure. The clay is then "sandwiched" between the resin and it has a cool effect.
gamekitty
It is never truly translucent. The best way to make it appear so is to use very very thin slices, bake it in a covered pan at the right temp, put item directly in ice bath and sand the heck out of it
Gingerbells
Translucent clay: the trick is practice. The translucent has to be super super thin to not leave the "fish scale" look. When slicing a cane it has to be almost tissue paper thin for you to almost eliminate the shadow. You can also trim away the translucent from the slice to help out. the rest is sanding sanding and some more sanding.
Dragonsglass
Translucent clay is tricky to work with. Some of the "scales" may be little pockets of air trapped, so be careful when conditioning clay so that no air gets trapped. Also, be sure that translucent clay gets conditioned enough. I find that if I don't condition the clay long enough, I tend to see little scaly looking spots. For translucent pieces to really look their best, sanding is the key. Sand with at least 4 different grits (400 to 1000) of wet/dry sandpaper to bring out the translucent layers in your pieces. The more sanding you do with more and finer grits, the better it will look.
intothedawn
UBK asks the following questions:
I have some pretty seed beads, not sure if they are glass or plastic, but they are teeny, and long story short, is it ok to push them into the clay before baking and bake like usual?
For the seed beads, I have used all kinds in my clay and baked them and they did just fine.
LaDeDaCreations
I've not tried seedbeads, but I have used flatback Swarovski crystals..they were fine.
HaffinaCreations
I suppose it is a preference but if the beads are plastic I would avoid putting the plastic ones in the oven, simply because I had a bad experience of them melting on me if it is the really cheap ones from China. However, some of the members used it with no problems so I think it depends on the bead. If in doubt, just put some beads in some scrap clay and bake it to see if they melt. If they don't melt in the oven then they pass the test and you use it for your artwork.
gamekitty
If they are glass they'll be fine, test one of them before hand and you'll know if they'll take the heat.
Gingerbells
My suggestion is take a few and push them into some scrap clay and bake. if they melt you know they can't be baked. However, that doesn't mean you can't use them. You can push them into the raw clay and then pop them out before baking, then put them back in the baked piece using super glue.
Dragonsglass
If you're not sure whether the beads are plastic or glass, I would do a test bake with a some of them before you add them to your pieces to make sure they won't melt. Also, sometimes beads that are just pushed into the clay will pop out later, so its a good idea to adhere them with liquid clay or wire them in, if possible. Or pop them out after baking and glue them in tight again.
intothedawn
I have had mixed experience with plastic beads. Some melted and some did not. Some plastic pearls had a really cool look after melting but it was not what I was going for. Always test on a piece of scrap clay.
ColtPixy
I've seen things in tutorials that say you can paint the clay with acrylic paint...is this before, or after, or "pick one"?
Yes you can paint on the clay with acrylics and I do it after the clay is baked. You'll also want to glaze the clay after you paint it so the paint doesn't scratch off.
LaDeDaCreations
You can do it either before or after. Personally I prefer before because then the paint bakes into the clay and it won't smear after it is baked. You can paint it afterwards too but I find that the paint smears and you have to seal it to make it smearproof. Seal it after the paint dries.
gamekitty
You can use it on raw clay OR baked clay. it all depends on the look you are going after. I use it on textured items both raw and baked.
Dragonsglass
If you're wanting to add a patina to your piece you will want to paint with acrylic paints after you bake and be sure to varnish to protect the paint. If you're using acrylic paint as part of a faux technique (such as faux turquoise) or for a layer in mokume gane, you would paint the raw clay.
intothedawn
I have used acrylic washes on sculptures that have already been baked. On sculptures I am looking for a matte finish so after the acrylic wash dries I cover it with a thin coat of liquid clay and rebake.
ColtPixy
Seriously, how do you get the translucent to BE translucent and not look like fish scales? (Never had much luck with it in the past, but want to try it again)
The translucent always turns out kind of milky looking and not actually clear. So I'm not sure if there's a trick to that or not.
LaDeDaCreations
I have heard that one way to get it 'clearer' is to drop it in ice water straight out of the oven. I havent tried it yet, so I dont know if it works. I've also heard that 'Sculpey Premo Frost' ends up the 'clearest', but that none end up looking like glass or anything.
HaffinaCreations
1) You can tent your work with foil. That does not always work though.
2) Bury your work in corn starch before baking and then sand it afterwards (never tried it; heard it from Cindy Lietz)
3) Bleach your work by soaking it in bleach until it becomes more clear (never tried that either)
4) Use a different brand of poly clay (people have good things to say about Kato translucent or frost premo; never tried it either)
5) Glaze your work after you are done.
6) If you are embedding it in resin, you don't have to bake it. Just pour a layer of resin on the mold you are using. Wait for the resin to cure completely. Then put your unfinished clay work in the mold and pour another layer of resin until it covers it, and wait for it to cure. The clay is then "sandwiched" between the resin and it has a cool effect.
gamekitty
It is never truly translucent. The best way to make it appear so is to use very very thin slices, bake it in a covered pan at the right temp, put item directly in ice bath and sand the heck out of it
Gingerbells
Translucent clay: the trick is practice. The translucent has to be super super thin to not leave the "fish scale" look. When slicing a cane it has to be almost tissue paper thin for you to almost eliminate the shadow. You can also trim away the translucent from the slice to help out. the rest is sanding sanding and some more sanding.
Dragonsglass
Translucent clay is tricky to work with. Some of the "scales" may be little pockets of air trapped, so be careful when conditioning clay so that no air gets trapped. Also, be sure that translucent clay gets conditioned enough. I find that if I don't condition the clay long enough, I tend to see little scaly looking spots. For translucent pieces to really look their best, sanding is the key. Sand with at least 4 different grits (400 to 1000) of wet/dry sandpaper to bring out the translucent layers in your pieces. The more sanding you do with more and finer grits, the better it will look.
intothedawn
Sunday, May 10, 2009
You had questions, we have answers
We received lots of great questions to last week's "Ask a Smoosher" and are going to split up the answers into several posts here. So if you do not see yours, not to worry it is coming up.
Creative Cove Jewelry Designs asks:
Why do some use a shiney finish and some just leave it like a matte finish? preference or technique?
The choice to glaze or not to glaze for me depends on the pattern more than anything. The shiny glaze really brings out the colors in the clay, especially if the clay has mica or glitter in it. Glaze is also good for protecting the clay.
LaDeDaCreations
I prefer to have the shiny finish you get from sanding and buffing. And I'm just starting to get with the idea of varnishing some pieces. I dont really like the matte look..so I guess its preference.
HaffinaCreations
I think it really depends on the piece. Some pieces need a gloss finish and some need a matte finish. Some of my pieces have no finish.
gamekitty
Well really it's both some techniques require sealing like when using mica powders. Some people prefer a super shiny finish; myself I love the look of a well sanded and buffed piece. You can get a great shine that way it just takes more work.
Gingerbells
For finishing: it all depends on the item. Many of my pieces I like to leave matte for a more organic feeling.
Dragonsglass
I think its a matter of personal preference. I prefer a glossy or semi-gloss varnish finish for beads and pendants because A) shiny usually looks best for jewelry items and B) it adds protection to the pendant or bead, especially if I've used metallic powders or added a patina. For sculptural items I tend to leave the clay as is, or use a matte finish varnish for protection. I personally like a more natural finish for sculptural pieces.
intothedawn
For me it depends on what the piece is. Some things look better shiny and do not look finished until they are. Some pieces need the organic look of a more matte finish and look ruined with a shiny surface.
ColtPixy
UBK asks:
Ok, so as of last night, I have about half a table full of poly stuff ready to bake...
But I don't know for how LONG. I know the temp, but not how long.
One thingydeal is about 1/16th- 1/8th inch thick, some of my beads are 1/4 inch thick, the little coffee cup thing is more of a sculpture and is about 3/4 inch tall by about 1/2 across...Oh, and another pen. I can't remember how long I used to bake those, and refuse to confess to the number I burnt before I finally "got it right".
I bake most of my clay items for about 25- 30 min. I also use foil on my cookie sheet because it helps the clay not get so hot where it burns on the bottom. I have noticed with white and translucent I have to bake it for about 20 min. or it starts to discolor.
LaDeDaCreations
I bake most of mine for about 20 minutes, 25 if they are larger, at about 130. Sometimes I turn it down closer to 120 and bake for a bit longer.
HaffinaCreations
Keep in mind Haffina uses Centigrade while UBK is in the U.S. and uses Fahrenheit
It really does not matter how long they bake in the oven, but if you have something that is 1/2" thick you probably should bake it extra long. It also depends on the clay you are using. I use premo sculpey which is 30 min for every 1/4". With that calculation you should bake the 1/2" thick pieces for 1 hour in the oven.
If your clay burns you probably have an oven that is too hot. You should get an oven thermometer just to make sure. You can get them pretty cheap and they make sure your oven temperature is correct.
gamekitty
As long as you are baking in a oven that maintains a constant temperature you really wont over cure it; this is a theory I have tested accidentally when I left some beads in the oven for over 4 hours. Fortunately for me my oven and thermometer run well with out spiking and I always bake in a covered pan. Under-baking is a problem because your items will be weak.
I always cure my items for no less them 30 minutes, beads usually go for about 45 minutes and sculpts I usually cure many times while making them and the final cure I usually go for about an hour.
In all these years I have never scorched or over cured an item and I believe it's because I have a good oven thermometer and took the time to calibrate my oven accordingly.
Gingerbells
For baking: I bake everything, no matter the thickness, at least one hour. Under baking time wise will make a piece brittle, over baking doesn't hurt it at all. I would rather be safe then sorry.
Dragonsglass
How long you bake depends on A) the brand of clay you use B) your oven temp quirks and C) thickness of your piece. I've found its essential to use an oven thermometer and get to know your oven temps, "hot spots" etc. Each clay brand should give the temp and amount of time to bake for a certain thickness. Because of the variety of thicknesses in your different pieces, you won't be able to bake them all in one batch. I like to use parchment paper to line my baking sheet to prevent "shiny spots" on the back of my pieces and to prevent browning. If baking translucent, pearl or white clays, I recommend lining your baking sheet with fireproof polyester fiberfill batting and covering your pieces with a double layer of wet paper towels for baking, to prevent browning/darkening of light colored clays. Some clay artists also recommend baking at 10* LESS than recommended, for the usual amount of time.
intothedawn
I also tend to bake longer than the time recommended by the manufacturer. Pieces that are under baked tend to have issues even months after cured. My better half calibrated my oven and I use a thermometer to make sure it never spikes during the curing process.
ColtPixy
Creative Cove Jewelry Designs asks:
Why do some use a shiney finish and some just leave it like a matte finish? preference or technique?
The choice to glaze or not to glaze for me depends on the pattern more than anything. The shiny glaze really brings out the colors in the clay, especially if the clay has mica or glitter in it. Glaze is also good for protecting the clay.
LaDeDaCreations
I prefer to have the shiny finish you get from sanding and buffing. And I'm just starting to get with the idea of varnishing some pieces. I dont really like the matte look..so I guess its preference.
HaffinaCreations
I think it really depends on the piece. Some pieces need a gloss finish and some need a matte finish. Some of my pieces have no finish.
gamekitty
Well really it's both some techniques require sealing like when using mica powders. Some people prefer a super shiny finish; myself I love the look of a well sanded and buffed piece. You can get a great shine that way it just takes more work.
Gingerbells
For finishing: it all depends on the item. Many of my pieces I like to leave matte for a more organic feeling.
Dragonsglass
I think its a matter of personal preference. I prefer a glossy or semi-gloss varnish finish for beads and pendants because A) shiny usually looks best for jewelry items and B) it adds protection to the pendant or bead, especially if I've used metallic powders or added a patina. For sculptural items I tend to leave the clay as is, or use a matte finish varnish for protection. I personally like a more natural finish for sculptural pieces.
intothedawn
For me it depends on what the piece is. Some things look better shiny and do not look finished until they are. Some pieces need the organic look of a more matte finish and look ruined with a shiny surface.
ColtPixy
UBK asks:
Ok, so as of last night, I have about half a table full of poly stuff ready to bake...
But I don't know for how LONG. I know the temp, but not how long.
One thingydeal is about 1/16th- 1/8th inch thick, some of my beads are 1/4 inch thick, the little coffee cup thing is more of a sculpture and is about 3/4 inch tall by about 1/2 across...Oh, and another pen. I can't remember how long I used to bake those, and refuse to confess to the number I burnt before I finally "got it right".
I bake most of my clay items for about 25- 30 min. I also use foil on my cookie sheet because it helps the clay not get so hot where it burns on the bottom. I have noticed with white and translucent I have to bake it for about 20 min. or it starts to discolor.
LaDeDaCreations
I bake most of mine for about 20 minutes, 25 if they are larger, at about 130. Sometimes I turn it down closer to 120 and bake for a bit longer.
HaffinaCreations
Keep in mind Haffina uses Centigrade while UBK is in the U.S. and uses Fahrenheit
It really does not matter how long they bake in the oven, but if you have something that is 1/2" thick you probably should bake it extra long. It also depends on the clay you are using. I use premo sculpey which is 30 min for every 1/4". With that calculation you should bake the 1/2" thick pieces for 1 hour in the oven.
If your clay burns you probably have an oven that is too hot. You should get an oven thermometer just to make sure. You can get them pretty cheap and they make sure your oven temperature is correct.
gamekitty
As long as you are baking in a oven that maintains a constant temperature you really wont over cure it; this is a theory I have tested accidentally when I left some beads in the oven for over 4 hours. Fortunately for me my oven and thermometer run well with out spiking and I always bake in a covered pan. Under-baking is a problem because your items will be weak.
I always cure my items for no less them 30 minutes, beads usually go for about 45 minutes and sculpts I usually cure many times while making them and the final cure I usually go for about an hour.
In all these years I have never scorched or over cured an item and I believe it's because I have a good oven thermometer and took the time to calibrate my oven accordingly.
Gingerbells
For baking: I bake everything, no matter the thickness, at least one hour. Under baking time wise will make a piece brittle, over baking doesn't hurt it at all. I would rather be safe then sorry.
Dragonsglass
How long you bake depends on A) the brand of clay you use B) your oven temp quirks and C) thickness of your piece. I've found its essential to use an oven thermometer and get to know your oven temps, "hot spots" etc. Each clay brand should give the temp and amount of time to bake for a certain thickness. Because of the variety of thicknesses in your different pieces, you won't be able to bake them all in one batch. I like to use parchment paper to line my baking sheet to prevent "shiny spots" on the back of my pieces and to prevent browning. If baking translucent, pearl or white clays, I recommend lining your baking sheet with fireproof polyester fiberfill batting and covering your pieces with a double layer of wet paper towels for baking, to prevent browning/darkening of light colored clays. Some clay artists also recommend baking at 10* LESS than recommended, for the usual amount of time.
intothedawn
I also tend to bake longer than the time recommended by the manufacturer. Pieces that are under baked tend to have issues even months after cured. My better half calibrated my oven and I use a thermometer to make sure it never spikes during the curing process.
ColtPixy
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)