Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts

Monday, September 10, 2012

How to condition and handle polymer clay

No matter how soft polymer clay is when you unwrap it, it still needs to be conditioned.  Conditioning polymer clay redistributes the ingredients in the clay that may have settled during storage.  If you don't properly condition your clay your finished piece may be weaker and more prone to breakage.  You know your clay is properly conditioned when you can fold it without having it crack.
To condition your clay start by cutting the block of clay into thin slices using a straight blade.  Roll over each slice with a clay roller, fold it in half and repeat several times until it starts to become softer.  Continue conditioning with your hands, smooshing, rolling, and folding the clay until it becomes warm and pliable.  You can condition the clay completely by hand or finish conditioning it with a pasta machine.  Be sure to always insert the clay through the pasta machine fold first to prevent air bubbles from becoming trapped between the layers.
 
Here's a short video showing how to condition polymer clay.
Softer clays such as Sculpey III and Pardo can usually be conditioned by hand by simply kneading them for a few minutes.  Using a pasta machine makes quick work of conditioning clay and you can usually find pasta machines for a reasonable price in most craft stores and online sites that sell polymer clay.
Firmer clays can be crumbly and difficult to condition.  With these clays you need to start warming the clay and conditioning by hand before trying to run them through the pasta machine to complete the conditioning process.   One way to soften the clay is to mix in small amounts of translucent clay.  However, if you add too much you may change the color of the clay.  You can also add a few drops of liquid clay and knead it in thoroughly.  Only add a few drops at a time or you will end up with a goopy mess!  Yet another way to warm your clay in preparation for conditioning is to place wrapped blocks of clay on a Ziploc bag filled with 1/2 cup of rice that's been microwaved for 30-45 seconds.  The rice will stay warm for up to an hour.  You may want to put a cloth between the bag of rice and your clay to prevent overheating.  You don't want the clay to begin curing.  One method I use to warm stiff clay is to sit on the clay or put it in my pocket (wrapped in it's original package or in a bag).  Just never put polymer clay in the microwave for any reason.
The heat of your hands can make some clays softer and softer while you're working with them.  If your clay becomes too soft and difficult to work with you may need to set it aside for a while and let it cool off.  Some people even put it in the refrigerator for a short time.
You can make soft clay firmer by a process called leaching, which removes some of the plasticizers from the clay.  While leaching will make the clay firmer to work with, it can also lessen the strength of the finished piece.  To leach your clay sandwich thin pieces of polymer clay between several layers of printer paper.  Place your "clay sandwich" on your work tile and set a heavy book on top.  Check your clay every so often until the desired firmness is achieved.  This process can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days.  Replace the paper when it appears saturated.  It will look like a grease stain on the paper.  And remember not to leave unbaked clay on painted, varnished, or lacquered surfaces, as the clay will damage them.
When working with different colors of clay start with the lightest colors first whenever possible.  Light colored clays can be difficult to keep clean since they will pick up anything on your hands, tools, or work surface. This post has more tips on working with light colored clay: Tips For Sculpting With White and Light Colored Polymer Clay.  Baby wipes work well for cleaning your hands not only in between colors, but every so often while you're working with your light color.  I also wipe down my tools to be sure there are no bits of darker clay on them.  Just be sure your wipes are lint free and don't leave fine particles on your hands, as these will quickly transfer to the clay.
My preferred work surface is a ceramic tile.  Tiles come in a variety of sizes and are fairly inexpensive at home improvement stores like Home Depot or Lowes.  They're smooth and easy to clean and don't affect the clay.  The tiles are nearly impervious to scratching and can go right from your work table to the oven.  I have tiles in several sizes for different sized projects.
If you don't want your clay to stick to your tile parchment type deli paper works quite nicely.  Placing your project on this allows you to move it around without distorting it.  I find this very useful when cutting out leaves and flowers.  I can cut them out on the paper and easily remove them to place them on my sculpture.  you can find this deli paper, also known as patty paper, in bulk at grocery warehouses and restaurant supply stores.  Baking on this paper also helps prevent shiny spots from forming on the bottom of your piece.

I hope these tips have helped you learn some of the basics of working with polymer clay!


Sunday, February 12, 2012

Tutorial from CreativeCritters- How to Make Stamped Heart Dangle Earrings

 This tutorial was written by Michelle of CreativeCritters and would make a great project for Valentines Day.  These pretty red heart earrings don't take too long to make and are completely customizable.  Use any color polymer clay that suits your fancy, and experiment with different stamps and Pearl Ex powders to create the perfect earrings to match your taste.

Materials needed:
red polymer clay (I used Premo Red Sparkle)
liquid polymer clay (I use a syringe to apply mine)
red Pearl Ex or Ranger Perfect Pearls powder
stamp of choice (I chose a small peacock stamp and just use the tail)
2 heart shaped cutters, 1 larger, 1 smaller
French wire ear hooks, or your choice of earrings
4 2" eye hooks
4 heart shaped jump rings (you can also use regular round jump rings)
round nose pliers
flat nose pliers
wire cutters


Condition your clay by running it through your pasta machine about 20 times and roll it out on the #3 setting on your pasta machine.  You can also condition the clay by hand and use a roller to flatten the clay if you don't have a pasta machine.  Use the large cutter to cut out 2 hearts. Do the same with the small cutter. These will be the backs of your earrings.


Place one eye hook on each of the larger hearts, as shown in the picture below. Add a little liquid polymer clay over the wires. This helps secure the wire and will also help the top heart adhere to the bottom one. We'll cut the eye pins to the proper length and form a loop at the bottom after they're baked.


For the smaller hearts cut the remaining 2 eye hooks to about 3/4" long and bend the end to form a hook.  Place these on the smaller hearts as shown and cover with a little liquid polymer clay.

Nest roll your remaining red clay out on the #1 (thickest) setting of your pasta machine and use the heart cutters to cut out 2 more large hearts and 2 more small hearts, which will become the front of the earrings.  Lay these on top of the hearts with the eye pins. Gently press the two sides of the hearts together to assure there are no air bubbles. Smooth the edges and refine the shape of the hearts.


Next use your stamp to impress a design on each of the hearts.  Any stamp with nice detail will work.  I just used the tail of the peacock for these hearts.  Spritzing the stamp with water will help to keep it from sticking to the clay.  I always keep a spray bottle handy.  This also works as a release agent for molds (spritz the mold, then press the clay into the mold).  Gently blot off any excess water from your stamped hearts and use your finger to gently rub the red Pearl Ex powder onto the raised surfaces of the design.  If your hearts become slightly squished you can reshape them now.   If excess liquid polymer clay comes out of the seams or the hole for the eye pin just carefully wipe it away.


If you're using Premo polymer clay bake the earrings at 275 degrees for 30 minutes.  If you're using another brand of clay be sure to check the baking directions on the package. An oven thermometer can help make sure your oven is at the proper temperature. After the hearts are cool brush them with two coats of varnish to protect the Pearl Ex powder.  I used Fimo Gloss Varnish for these.  Always make sure your varnish is compatible with polymer clay.  If it's not your piece may never dry completely. Once the varnish has dried (about 20 minutes for the Fimo varnish) you can assemble your earrings.

To assemble your earrings, cut the end of the eye pin on the larger hearts to about 1/4" long and use your round nose pliers to form a loop.  Use the heart shaped jump rings to attach the large hearts to the ear wires and the small hearts to the large ones.  You should end up with something that looks like this. If you can't find heart shaped jump rings (I got mine from Fire Mountain Gems) you can also use regular round jump rings.


And there you go!  Pretty red stamped polymer clay earrings- perfect for Valentines Day! ;-)
~Michelle of CreativeCritters 

Friday, January 20, 2012

How To Make a Stamped Heart Pendant- tutorial from CreativeCritters

With Valentines Day just around the corner many of us are either buying or creating handmade hearts of all sorts.  In this video tutorial Michelle of CreativeCritters shows you how to make a beautiful polymer clay heart pendant which is stamped and then colored with Pearl Ex powder.  This is a fun and easy project that just about anyone can do, and it requires very few supplies.
I hope you enjoyed this project and will come back for more!

Friday, January 13, 2012

How to make a striped pen- polymer clay tutorial by Kael Mijoy

Covering pens in polymer clay is a fun way to jazz them up and this Striped Pen tutorial from Smoosher member Korrina of Kael Mijoy is an easy project that even beginners can do.
 
Korrina writes: 
This is a really quick and easy way to cover a pen that can be quite striking in the right colors.  It's also a good way to use up any strings you have left laying around from your last filligree project.  You can find out more about covering pens in this blog post and more about extruding polymer clay strings in this one
Supplies Needed:
1 Bic Round Stic pen or similar
Several colors of clay strings (about 6-7 feet altogether)
Tools Needed:
Round-nose pliers
Extruder (unless you've already made your strings)
Sharp craft knife (a tissue blade will work but I prefer my X-acto knife for more precision)

Directions: 
Extrude your clay (if you haven't already).  I'm using strings leftover from a filigree project.  You won't need near this much, it's just my leftovers.

This is only the beginning of the tutorial, but if you want to see how this multicolored polymer clay spaghetti turns into a pretty pen go to http://www.kaelmijoy.blogspot.com/2012/01/polymer-clay-tutorial-striped-pen.html.  You'll find plenty of other interesting and fun tutorials on this blog as well!
Kael Mijoy can also be found online on Flickr, Twitter, http://www.kaelmijoy.blogspot.com/, and her ArtFire shop.

Monday, January 2, 2012

How To Make Landscape Jasper- Faux Stone Tutorial by Tina Holden

 This post was written by Smoosher member Tina Holden of Beadcomber.
Tina Holden’s Faux Stone Tutorial- Landscape Jasper
Jasper is often named according to its pattern: landscape jasper, the most popular, offers a small panorama in stone. Often the name Landscape or Picture is interchanged for this type of Jasper. I’ve devised a simple way to recreate it with polymer clay. You only require clay, some chalk, your hands and fingers for this technique. No blade, no machine, not even a roller! This maybe the shortest tutorial I have ever written as well, lol. Stone examples:

Polymer Clay bead:
Materials:
Ecru polymer clay
Chalk/Artist soft chalk pastels in beige, rust, brown, dark brown, black
Tools:
Pasta machine or Acrylic Roller (optional)
1) Condition and roll clay on largest setting of pasta machine or use an acrylic roller to roll to about a 1/8” thickness. You can also flatten the clay using your fingers as the objective isn’t a smooth flat sheet, but rough strips of clay. Let it rest a bit or put in the fridge/freezer for a couple of minutes as warm clay doesn’t tear up easily. Tear strips, various widths and sizes.





2) Crumple the pieces up and smoosh them together. Don’t roll smooth, you want the rough edges.









3) Apply the various chalk colours on the outside of the rough pieces. Start with the lightest colour and add darker colours last. Your finger is the paint brush. Don’t worry if your piece has fingerprints, they actually are an added feature here, creating a nice matrix that won’t look like a fingerprint in the finished bead, but more like speckles!





4) Roll or shape your piece flat and again. Again, let rest or put in fridge or freezer to cool. Tear into strips and pieces like before.








This time, before assembling and smooshing the pieces together, apply dark brown and black on the rough edges of some strips. Then smoosh together and roll into a ball for a bead, or flatten and smooth for a pendant, or create
another shape. Now is the time to smooth away any fingerprints as well, sorry, lol. You may find it helpful to use a dusting of cornstarch on your hands and fingers. Cornstarch clogs up those fine crevices and ridges in your fingers and hands and make the smoothing process easier
.

What do you think? Simple, huh?
You can also use other base colours and other chalk colours for this Landscape technique.

You can find Beadcomber online at http://beadcomber.artfire.com , http://beadcomber.blogspot.com,
http://facebook.com/beadcomber, http://flickr.com/tinaholden.
Thanks for reading!

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Monday, December 26, 2011

How To Make a Teddy Bear Christmas Ornament in Polymer Clay

This video tutorial, made by Michelle of CreativeCritters, will show you how to sculpt a miniature teddy bear ornament in polymer clay.  This cute little bear, complete with Santa hat and warm scarf, will make an adorable addition to your Christmas tree!
I hope you enjoyed this video and will go on to make lots of little Christmas bears! ;-)
CreativeCritters can also be found online on Flickr, Facebook, her blog, and YouTube.

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Sunday, November 20, 2011

How To Make a Polymer Clay Poinsettia Cane by Artmakers Worlds

This post was written by Jen of Artmakers Worlds on her own blog located at http://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/blog/ArtmakersWorlds and she was kind enough to let me share it here as well.



Just for fun, the making of a poinsettia cane.

You can find this cane listing by clicking here.

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I won't walk everyone through every single step in cane building, in fact I didn't even think to photograph this until I had a good start. But if you want an idea of how canes are made, there is plenty of info here.
Enjoy.



The petals and leaves are all made the same way. It's a basic leaf cane. In short, you run a few colors side by side through a pasta machine, fold and run over and over. This is called a "skinner blend." Roll that up and you have a "plug." Each end of this plug will be a different shade. Well what I want is a plug that runs one color along one side, not each end. So I compress the ends together and stretch the sides until I have a plug with colors side by side instead of end to end. Cut that and add the veins, and I'll show this later in the demo.


The center part is simple. Make a log of one color, wrap it with another. Reduce, cut into several equal sections, put them side by side, reduce again. Do this as many times as you need to get the number of center dots you want.

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So I've made my basic leaf in red, reduced that long enough to cut a dozen sections. The first six got tacked to my center piece,
Now I snug the next six around those. And that's our flower.

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Next, I need to find a green to use for the leaves. As it turns out the only green I have on hand is a real bright one. Too bright.
Well before I got into polymer clay I was a painter so blending colors is second nature to me. The way to "tone down" an obnoxious shade of anything is to use a bit of it's opposite on the color wheel. The opposite of green is red. Just a touch of red will bring down the yikes factor just enough to make a nice leaf. The scraps I had from the ends of the flower part is perfect. The photo shows the green I started with and what a touch of red blended in makes.
Now I have enough to make the dark leaf veins as well as some shadow at the base of the leaves.

So again, I made a plug, then compressed it and pulled it sideways to make a plug that is dark on one side and light on the other.
As with any basic leaf, slice this in half and insert a sheet of dark green. Slice both sides and insert sheets as the leaf veins. Voila. Now reduce that long enough to make six or seven sections.
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So here I've added the reduced leaf sections. How many you add at this point is not that important. Note I have two leaves side by side on one spot.
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Now it's time to start packing with translucent. Being careful to make triangular shapes that fit between the leaves so their shapes don't get mushed together.
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And here is my cane fully assembled and ready to start reducing.
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Note, I'm not covering how to reduce a cane. Basically I start by simply squeezing this thing. Squeeze, turn, squeeze, turn. Once it grows in length enough I start squeezing the center until it forms sort of a waistline. This is how all canes get reduced. It's time consuming, and sometimes it's a bit of a work out. Just gotta go slow, compress from the center out towards the ends. All those air spaces will be squeezed out and the design gets compressed together.
Never roll a cane to reduce. That will twist the design and trap in any air pockets.



Here is my smiling mug (yikes) holding the cane just before the reducing process. Gives you and idea how big cans are before they get shrunk and stretched. This one is actually a medium size. I've made a few that were twice as big as this. If not larger. those are such a work out to reduce though, every time I end up with one that big I say to myself "self? Don't DO that again."
This one was not a problem to reduce. Good size.
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And finally, here are my freshly reduced and cut pieces ready to be wrapped and stored until some wonderful customer decides to buy and turn into creative things.
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Hope you enjoyed the life of a cane.

Jen

Find Artmakers Worlds online at http://www.flickr.co...rtmakersworlds/, http://twitter.com/#!/artmakersworlds, and http://artmakersworlds.com/.http://artmakersworlds.com/.

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Monday, November 14, 2011

Grays Crafts shares how to make a polymer clay cameo

Recently one of our guild members asked how to make a polymer clay cameo and Grays Crafts replied,

"If you need it in one piece (without background), that's what I do. Get translucent and ecru clay, roll out on thickest setting each of them. Stack on top of each other and roll through machine again. Tear in half, stack and roll. I usually stop when there is 30-60 very thin layers. Then create striped cane - slice stack in parts, stack parts, so stripes become the working surface.

Get a good carved cameo (or your best doll face if you only need a face), spritz with water/automotive protectant and press into the molding material. Molding material - 2 part molding compound or Bake and Bend clay. I make all my custom stamps out of this clay. In case with component, let it set. In case with clay - bake with piece in place, if it can be baked or carefully pull it out. Don't bake clay in clay :).

Slice piece off the striped cane thick enough to fill the mold and push it into the mold. You want to spritz clay or the mold. Or both :). Stripes will get distorted. In my opinion, it gives them a more natural look. Make sure the back is level and generally decent and carefully pull out of mold. Bake, antique, heat set the patina, buff.

Imitates the look of ivory. You can add scratch-like marks before baking to make it look distressed. You can also create background for your cameo from the same faux ivory if you want.

Good luck! :)"

So there you have it- a fairly easy way to create your own polymer clay cameos! A big thanks to Grays Crafts for sharing her knowledge with us!
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Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Hot Fudge Spoon Cake

Bet you didn't expect to find a cake recipe on a polymer clay blog. =)
I got a lot of requests for BewitchingDreams' favorite Hot Fudge Spoon Cake Recipe so here it is:

Hot Fudge Spoon Cake Recipe
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 & 3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed and divided
1/4 cup plus 3 Tablespoons baking cocoa, divided
2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk
2 Tablespoon butter, melted
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 & 3/4 cup hot water
Garnish: vanilla ice cream

Combine flour, one cup brown sugar, 3 Tablespoons cocoa, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk in milk, melted utter and vanilla. Spread evenly in a slow cooker.

Mix together remaining brown sugar and cocoa; sprinkle evenly over the batter.

Pour in hot water; do not stir. Cover and cook on high setting for 2 hours, until a toothpick inserted one inch deep comes out clean. Spoon warm cake into bowls; top with vanilla ice cream. Makes 6 servings.

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Monday, June 6, 2011

Tutorial: polymer clay eyeglasses case

Polymer Clay Smoosher Gingerbells has written a tutorial on how she covered an eyeglass case with polymer clay. Isn't it lovely! You will find her tutorial HERE on her tumbler blog.

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Visit Gingerbells.artfire.com

Saturday, February 27, 2010

Polymer Clay Cane



Gingerbells answers the question, "What is Polymer Clay Cane?"

If you click the tutorial category here on the left you will find several cane tutorials.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Kato Transluscent Clay Experiment by HaffinaCreations

Kato Transluscent Clay Experiment by HaffinaCreations

The following experiment was conducted in my home, with as much care taken as possible to ensure consistency between the trial groups.

The purpose of the experiment was to see how translucent clay responds to different curing processes. There were 4 groups. Group 1 was the control group. Group 2 was buried in cornflour. Group 3 was buried in cornflour and then dunked into cold water straight after curing. Group 4 was cured uncovered and dunked in cold water straight after curing.

I made up a simple cane of turquoise clay surrounded by Kato translucent clay. I cut 4 x 5mm slices, then used 2mm slices to cover a core bead of turquoise and translucent mixed together (cane ends LOL). The core beads were all the same size.

All the pieces were cured in my toaster oven at 275 degrees F for 30 minutes. Group 3 and 4 were dropped into water that had chilled in my freezer for 30 minutes (while clay cured).

As soon as beads were touch cool I took photographs and noted my impressions.

I then sanded each piece with 400grit, 1200grit and 3000grit wet /dry sandpaper and buffed with a dremel.

I then rephotographed and noted my impressions.

I will note now that I was surprised by the end results – they were not exactly what I had been expecting. It is also worth noting I used Kato translucent – other translucent clays may well perform differently under the same conditions.

The simple cane we started with, with the clay for the bead cores at the back.




  1. Our four groups on a ceramic tile covered with paper.
  2. Our four groups ready to go in the oven.
  3. Groups 3 and 4 in cold water straight out of the oven.
  4. Groups 1 and 2 just out of the oven.



First impressions.


Group 1 – Had a weird orangey hue and sort of ‘ooze’ on the surface of the clay. It was also very ‘shiny’.

Group 2 – Very white in colour – as white as the uncured clay of the cane. Surface was very smooth with none of the ‘ooze’ of group 1.

Group 3 – White, but not as white as group 2. It seems ‘clearer’, but not hugely. There was none of the ‘ooze’ of group 1.

Group 4 – There was a slight orangey tinge and a little of the ‘ooze’, but it actually seems to be more translucent than the rest.

After sanding and buffing.




Group 1 – Slight discolouration, a little orangey or yellow. Medium ‘cracking’, mainly long cracks. There is ‘translucence’, but with a orangey tinge of colour.

Group 2 – No discolouring, very white. Medium ‘cracking’, very similar to group 1. Some translucence, but less than group 1.

Group 3 – No discolouring, but not as ‘white’ as group 2. Lots of little ‘cracks’, more than group 1 or 2. Translucence is about the same as group 1, but without the tinge of orange.

Group 4 – The discolouring noticed after curing is almost completely gone after sanding, although it isn’t as ‘white’ as groups 2 and 3. Lots of little ‘cracks’ like group 3. The best translucence of them all, but not by a huge amount.

Not the best shot of the differences in translucence, but hopefully will give some idea. Groups are in numerical order as in picture before.



Picture of ‘cracking’ on the beads. Every attempt was made to ensure no air bubbles were present in clay – these cracks are unlike the cracking caused by air bubbles. Groups are in same order as before.


Conclusion:

Cornflour prevents the discolouration of the clay, although if you plunge it into cold water after curing the discolouring seems easier to sand off.

However, plunging it into cold water seems to induce more of the ‘cracking’, which could be very useful if making faux gemstones.

2mm thick slices are too thick for the really translucent look.

In my opinion, although the plunging in cold water alone seemed to give the best result, for a result without discolouring, bury in cornflour and then plunge in cold water.

I hope this has been as interesting to read as it was to do.

Visit HaffinaCreations.artfire.com

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Snowflake Cane Tutorial by 2goodclaymates

Polymer Clay Smoosher 2goodclaymates has a beautiful Snowflake cane tutorial on her blog HERE.



She has lots of great step-by-step photos along with easy to follow directions. Go check it out and tell her we sent you.

Friday, August 14, 2009

Taking a Tumble- An Easier Way to Sand

This tutorial is brought to you by http://intothedawn.artfire.com

One of the most amazing characteristics of polymer clay is that it can be sanded and buffed until it looks almost like glass. But all that sanding is hard work on the hands and fingers! Here are easy instructions on sanding beads using an inexpensive rock tumbler found in the kid's section at the craft stores.

This method uses wet/dry sandpaper. Using an old pair of scissors, cut the paper into strips, then into squares. The squares should be approximately 1 cm square-- if they are much larger, you will find that the paper will curl inward when it is wet, preventing sanding. I would say I cut a loose heap of about 1/3 - 1/2 C of squares.

Next, measure the inside of the barrel on your tumbler. You will want to cut a strip of sandpaper to line the barrel. Cut the width a little shorter so that it does not quite reach the lip of the barrel, otherwise the paper may prevent a tight seal when you put the lid on the tumbler.

I use good old duct tape to tape the sandpaper strip together before fitting it into the barrel, usually a couple of pieces overlapping; that way if one should not hold well, the other will help it. REMEMBER the rough side is on the INSIDE of your sandpaper tube. Pop the tube into the barrel.

Next, place 1/2 your beads into the tumbler, then 1/2 your sandpaper squares, the rest of your beads and the rest of your sandpaper squares on top. Don't fill the tumbler more than 3/4 full, otherwise there won't be enough room for movement and things won't tumble and sand nicely.

Now its time to fill the tumbler with water. Fill it so that the water just covers your beads & sandpaper. Too much water prevents the beads from tumbling, they will just float around in the barrel. Remember, you want them to rub against the sandpaper sides and the squares in the water so that they get sanded. Add a drop or 2 of liquid dish soap. Not too much, or you'll wind up with bubbly water! (I've never heard why to put in the liquid soap, but any instructions I've read about using a tumbler suggest it-- if you know why, please leave a comment).

Finally, use vaseline/petroleum jelly around the outside lip of the tumbler and the inside edge of the tumbler's lid to act as a seal. Be careful not to use too much, as too much may ooze into the tumbler and make your beads feel tacky and they will be more difficult to buff later. Twist on and lock the lid and check your seal for leaks. All good?

Then its time to tumble! I start with 400 grit paper and let beads tumble for about 16 hours. Then I switch to 600 hundred grit, same amount of time. Depending on how smooth you want your items to be, you can continue with smaller grits until you are satisfied with the look & feel of your beads.

But WAIT-- don't throw away all that sandpaper! I've found that it can be dried and used at least one more time. So spread it on a towel to dry and use again. The duct tape should be fairly easy to pull off the strip lining the tumbler. You may need to lie something on top of the strip that lined the barrel so that it will dry flat.

This is only one method for using a rock tumbler for sanding your polymer clay pieces. I've heard there is some sort of technique using a tumbler & river rocks to sand polymer and I've heard rumors that you can also buff beads using a tumbler filled with felt. If you have any experiences with using a tumbler for your polymer clay, please share in comments!

Monday, June 22, 2009

Shiny Bead Tutorial by 2GoodClaymates

Have you ever wondered how you can get shiny beads without having to sand and buff? 2GoodClaymates shares with us her technique for doing this in her Shiny Bead Tutorial.

2goodclaymates bead tut

Visit 2GoodClaymates.artfire.com

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Signature Stamp Tutorial by 2GoodClaymates

2GoodClaymates shares how to use polymer clay to make a stamp. This stamp can then be used for stamping your signature or anything else you dream up into polymer clay.

stamp tutorial

Thank you 2GoodClaymates!
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Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Brain Cane Tutorial by Dragonsglass

Dragonsglass is very talented and has a great sense of humor. Today she shares with us her tutorial for a brain cane. Click the image to see her tutorial.

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Thank you Dragonsglass! Visit her studio at Dragonsglass.artfire.com